The best yellowjacket elimination job starts with locating any possibleentry points leading to the nest. This is true of ground nests as well aswall nests. It is best to locate these entrance holes during the afternoonhours. During this time period, the workers are easily seen as they foragefor food and return to their home. To create a safer environment foryellowjacket extermination, place a small object close to the entrance hole sothat it is easily seen. This is very important, as you will see in thesecond step of the operation. If you can see entrance holes, go to the . If you are unable to pinpoint theexact location of the colony's entrance, it might be due to grass, weeds, groundcover or landscaping. In this case, it might be necessary to the general area with a professional liquid insecticide, using your hose endsprayer. A pump type garden sprayer is not suggested for this job. Eliminating yellowjackets, bees in a wall void or other such above ground nest,follow the guidelines in .
broadcast treating an area, there are twopesticides that work better than others: Cypermethrin and Talstar. Both ofthese products are synthetic pyrethrins that are safer to use than Dursban,Diazinon or other harsh products. These two products are also far betterin performance. Yellowjackets, wasps and hornets do not like Cypermethrin!
Pour 4 to 8 ounces of Cypermethrin insecticide concentrate into your hose endsprayer. Attach your sprayer to a garden hose. You may now safelyspray your pesticide solution over the entire area. Begin with fencelines, flower beds, tall grass or weeds, or any area where you suspectyellowjackets to forage or where possible entrances to their colony could be. If there is not too much flying insect activity, you can broadcast your liquidinsecticide during daylight hours. Watch your step! The power ofyour garden hose sprayer will give you the reach and distance needed to do thejob but you should still be on the lookout for yellowjackets and their colonyentrance holes. After your Cypermethrin treatment, you may go on to the .
Paper wasps also build their nests with a papery pulp. They construct only one comb of cells without any protective envelope (figure 15, 16 and 17). These insects are sometimes known as umbrella wasps because of the shape of their nest. Paper wasps typically build nests under any horizontal surface and are commonly found on limbs, overhangs, building eaves, beams and supports in attics, garages, barns, sheds, and similar places.
Wasps that build paper nests on or in our homes, barns, place of businessor other structures are the subjects of this article. These stinginginsects feed on a variety of items including insects, which (in the overallcycle of things) makes them predators of potential pests and thereforebeneficial - until they get too close to us and our families. Once thishappens, they become a pest that needs dealing with in a safe manner.
Paper wasp nests are generally small, often with under a dozen individuals, with maximum numbers of about 100 wasps. Like yellowjackets, paper wasps do not reuse nests the following year. European paper wasps differ from other paper wasps in that they will also build their nests on vertical surfaces and in cavities; they can also reuse old nests (figures 15, 16 and 17).
Yellowjacket and paper wasp colonies survive only one year, referred to as an annual colony. Queens are the only members of the colony that survive the winter. Newly produced and mated queens leave their old nests and search for protected sites to overwinter, such as under loose tree bark, old rotten stumps, or within buildings, such as under siding.
If you can see the nest (e.g. it is attached to the eaves), you can treat it using an aerosol spray* labeled for "wasps and hornets" or something similar. These typically contain active ingredients such as tetramethrin or prallethrin. For yellowjackets, spray it directly into the opening of the nest (where the yellowjackets fly back and forth). For paper wasps, spray them so all of the combs receive some insecticide. It is also possible to kill paper wasps with a soap and water mixture.
If a nest is located in an out-of-the-way location and is unlikely to be disturbed, it is best left alone and ignored. If, however, a nest is located in a "high traffic" area such as along walkways or near doorways, control is justified to reduce the threat of being stung. Yellowjackets and paper wasps are very protective of their colonies and will defend them if they feel threatened.
When new queens take refuge in buildings for the winter, they remain in their overwintering sites until the weather becomes warm enough for them to become active. This typically occurs in late winter or early spring. Because they are trapped indoors, this gives the impression that a nest is active within the building. Fortunately, this is not the case. While yellowjacket queens typically overwinter singly in a building, paper wasp queens are gregarious (often there are at least several queens present). However, this is where they have overwintered and not a site of an active nest. The only necessary control is to physically remove or crush them. You can also capture them and release them outdoors.
By late summer, new queens and males are produced. Shortly afterward, the colonies start declining as the queens stop laying eggs. Eventually, new queens are produced. After mating, they fly off to search for places to spend the winter. The nest remains active until freezing temperatures (usually in the mid to upper 20°s F) arrive killing the old queen and the workers. In the Upper Midwest, even yellowjacket and paper wasp nests inside a building do not survive the winter. If they don't die from the cold, they will starve.
A single paper wasp queen may start a nest or several queens may do so. When a small group of females establishes a nest, eventually one becomes dominant and becomes responsible for laying eggs. The others assume duties for the upkeep of the nest and are joined later by newly produced workers. If the founding queen is killed, another queen will take over laying eggs.
In April or May, each queen becomes active with warmer weather and selects a suitable location and starts to construct her nest. Each nest is built from scratch each year while the previous year's nests are not reused (except for European paper wasp nests).
During the summer and fall months, stinging insects can become a problem for homeowners in Missouri and other parts of the mid-west. These insects include honey bees, bumble bees, paper wasps, bald-faced hornets and yellow jackets. These insects feed on the nectar of flowers, as well as on other insects, so they will nest in areas where they have easy access to their food sources and in areas where they feel protected. To the annoyance of many homeowners, this can mean in the eaves of their home, in attics, under decking, in bushes surrounding homes or even inside the walls of their home. If you have stinging insects swarming near your home or property, it’s important to know the health risks associated with having these insects around, as well as what you can do to avoid coming in contact with the stinging end of these insects.